Right off the bat, let me just say that I am by no means an expert on shopping sustainably. I honestly think anyone that tells you that they are an expert in this field is either lying or not paying attention. A lot of brands have given the word "sustainable" a bad rep, due to greenwashing, inconsistent and non-inclusive sizing, and inaccessibly high price tags. It's important to understand that the only TRUE way to have a sustainable wardrobe is to not buy anything at all. With that being said, it can be tough to take this approach, especially if dressing brings you joy or if you have a new occasion that requires a wardrobe refresh (new job, major life event, weight gain/loss, etc.). Over the last few years, I've attempted to come up with a system for shopping that's more mindful, but also offers some flexibility in terms of how I approach sustainability. Here are my top three tips below.
1. Thrift Trending Items This has been a big one for me. I've always enjoyed thrifting for trending items, but I also used to couple this with shopping trends from fast fashion retailers. This led to a highly addictive cycle of refreshing websites and checking New Arrivals pages constantly. I had a closet that was bursting at the seams with items that I wore once or not at all. And, in the end, I was often so overwhelmed with everything that was hanging in my closet that I would just reach for the same things I always wore.
The thing with trends is that they resurface every 20 years. It might even be a shorter timeline than that at this point, with the constant influx of micro-trends that we see today. Considering this cycle, wouldn't it make the MOST sense to find these trends at the thrift store, which is packed to the gills with clothes from 20 years ago? And you know the quality was better back then, so you're essentially paying less for a better article of clothing. Seems like a no brainer to me.
Another plus to shopping trends secondhand is that the time and effort that it takes to hunt down these items will put into perspective whether this trend is even RIGHT for you. Urban Outfitters may have convinced you that you need a Y2K Carrie Bradshaw-inspired asymmetrical top, but when it takes you a few thrift store trips to find THE ONE that works for you, the luster may have worn off and you're starting to wonder why you even wanted this item in the first place. On the flip side of that, if you find one that's perfect, you will inherently treasure it more and will likely wear it more often because of the effort it took to find it. Plus, how would you be able to resist the inevitable, "Thanks, it's vintage." conversation?
2. The Three-Outfit Rule In all my years of thrifting, one thing that I have never had luck with is finding vintage jeans that fit me well. When I glance over the denim rack at the thrift store, I can pull out a few good pieces, but 9 times out of 10, it's not my size, wash preference, or it doesn't have the annoying petite inseam that I need to look like I'm not wearing JNCOs. Considering that I'm a tried-and-true jeans and top gal, this breaks my heart to no end. Which is why I still have to shop traditional retail for denim.
Once I've made the decision to purchase something new from a traditional retailer (i.e. fast fashion), I don't beat myself up about it, but I DO enlist my Three-Outfit Rule. I'm not really sure when I came up with this rule, but it has become my go-to for filtering out things that I won't wear or styles that won't work with my exisiting wardrobe. Basically, anytime I am contemplating a purchase, I try to envision three outfits on the spot that would go with that item. My brain will quickly scan what I know is in my closet, and either come up with three easy-to-style looks, or it won't. And that usually means that item is not meant to be. But what if it's for a special occasion? If it cannot be seamlessly integrated in your closet after the event, then it's generally not worth the purchase. At that point, I'd look into outfit rental suppliers like Rent the Runway, which honestly has amazing styles that are way more affordable than buying new anyway.
3. Keep Refining Your Closet I recently read Wear It Well by stylist Allison Bornstein, and I would HIGHLY recommend this book as a resource to nailing down your personal style and curating a closet that truly feels like YOU. This is crucial when you're trying to be more sustainable, because you will have the assurance that the majority of your closet brings you joy. This feeling will quickly eliminate the need to keep buying more things, and will encourage you to "shop your closet". Additionally, it provides clarity when the time comes to invest in something new. There won't be as many guessing games, because you are confident in your personal style and in the clothing that you choose.
I purchased this book at a time when I was feeling a little lost about my own style, and also knew that I needed to confront my closet and do some serious editing. For vintage lovers, this is hard. We are maximalists at heart, and feel that everything is special enough to keep. This book helped me to define my personal style using Bornstein's Three-Word Method, which was super enlightening! Using my Three Words, I now feel confident editing my closet down to the pieces that make me feel like the best version of myself, which is both sustainable and empowering. As Iris Apfel once said, "Fashion you can buy, but style you possess. The key to style is learning who you are, which takes years. There's no how-to road map to style. It's about self expression and, above all, attitude."